125 years of the Flexenstraße

It is assumed that paths over the Arlberg and the Flexen Pass were already used in prehistoric times and during Roman times, even if the existence of Roman or Rhaetian paths has not been scientifically proven. Archaeological finds at the entrances to the Klostertal and Stanzertal valleys indicate settlement since the Bronze Age. Mobility in the region is evidenced by a Middle Bronze Age Lapp axe between Lech and Zürs.

An important find comes from Zürs: in 1950, a Merovingian-era grave was discovered with a male skeleton and grave goods such as a bronze coin, a belt buckle, fire steel and an iron knife. On the Arlberg Pass, the remains of a path from the 14th century have been archaeologically investigated in recent years. Similar studies are planned for the Flexen Pass in the coming years, in particular for the connection via the "Gafriweg".

Image: Blasius Huber map, 1783, Vorarlberg Provincial Archives

In winter, when there is a lot of snow on the Arlberg, the snow filling the gorges and hollows south-east of the Flexen Pass creates level connections. This enabled the people of Tannberg to conveniently transport their products, such as livestock, by sledge to Rauz and from there grain, salt and goods for their own use. This winter connection offered a safe and time-saving alternative to the route over the Flexen Pass to Stuben.

The "Alte Flexen", a historic path from Stuben to the Flexenpass, and the "Gafriweg" as a connection to Rauz have been used for centuries. The serpentine path from Stuben, which is recorded as "Saumschlag" on Blasius Hueber's 18th century map of Vorarlberg, was established from the Middle Ages at the latest. Until 1806, the maintenance of this path was financed from the customs revenue of the customs office in Zürs. After its abolition during Bavarian rule, the condition of the path deteriorated noticeably.

It was not until 1856 that the path was upgraded so that it could be used by two-wheeled carts. The Gafriweg remained a preferred route, especially in winter, when the snow conditions made it easier to pass. These historic paths are evidence of the close connection between people, landscape and trade in the region around the Flexenpass.

Using the mule track from Stuben am Arlberg towards the Flexenpass was particularly dangerous in winter. The death register of the parish of Stuben documents numerous accidents along this route. In 1670, Matthäus Matt from Nüziders and his horse were "buried by the snow". In 1718, a tragic avalanche accident occurred in which Johannes Jochum died on the way to Tannberg. In 1730, Kaspar Kurzemann died 13 days after an accident in the great "Gaferi avalanche".

More misfortunes followed: in 1756, two young men from Rankweil were buried by an avalanche in the "Zügle", and in 1788 Johannes Fritz and his daughter Katharina died in a mudslide. Regina Ringler from Lech was killed by a falling rock on the Flexenweg in 1798, and in 1818 Basilius Wolf from Zug died in an avalanche on his way to Zürs. In 1852, Christian Werle from Bartholomäberg suffered the same fate when he was hit by a rock.

The death of cattle dealer Josef Anton Walch from Lech was a particularly memorable event. He was caught in an avalanche at the end of 1891 and was found dead on January 5, 1892. The loss of the young family man once again highlighted the need for a safe winter connection from Stuben to Tannberg and played a decisive role in the construction of the Flexenstraße.

The biography of Franz-Josef Mathies (1864-1937), known as "Avalanche-Franz-Josef", is one of the most famous stories about the Flexenstraße. This story, first published in 1914 by teacher Josef Anton Bickel, was taught in local history lessons in Vorarlberg for generations.

Franz-Josef Mathies, the eldest son of a family from the Teschenberg parcel of land in Warth, began working as a small shepherd at the age of six. After school, he earned his living as a freight carrier and letter carrier, transporting goods from Langen am Arlberg via the old Flexenweg to the Tannberg. On December 21, 1886, he was caught in an avalanche on this route. Miraculously, he survived 30 hours under the snow, as the water of the Flexenbach stream kept an air shaft clear.

Around 1900, Franz-Josef hosted the first skiers at Gasthof Alpenrose in Zürs before later settling down as a carter in Stallehr. After his death in 1937, he was buried in Stuben am Arlberg, where his name is still associated with the history of the Flexenstraße.

Note: These and other stories were part of the exhibition "The Emperor's Greatest Stuben", which highlighted the historical significance of Flexenstrasse.

The project for the construction of the Flexenstrasse, drawn up by the provincial engineer Paul Ilmer, was submitted to the government in 1894 in order to apply for a state subsidy. At the same time, the state of Vorarlberg held out the prospect of a subsidy to support the project.

With the opening of the Arlberg Railway in 1884, traffic over the Flexen Pass increased considerably. Trade in the Tannberg communities, especially Lech, increasingly shifted southwards. However, avalanche events such as the disasters of 1886 and 1891 highlighted the urgent need for an avalanche-proof access road.

In 1892, the municipalities of Lech and Warth submitted a joint application to the road committee of the state of Vorarlberg, requesting the construction of a safe road. A key supporter of the project was Sebastian Walch (1854-1917), the mayor of Lech at the time. The preparatory work for the construction of the "Kunststraße" was ultimately initiated by Governor Adolf Rhomberg (1851-1921). The experienced South Tyrolean cultural engineer Paul Ilmer (1850-1912) took over the technical management and planning of this pioneering project.

The Flexenstraße thus became a decisive milestone for the development of transport and trade in the region.

On August 3, 1895, the ground-breaking ceremony for the construction of the Flexenstraße was held after the planning work had been completed in the summer of the same year. The ceremony began with a high mass, held by Pastor Schenk in Stuben, and continued despite the pouring rain with the church inauguration and speeches, including one by Governor Adolf Rhomberg.

Provincial building officer Paul Ilmer and senior building officer August Ritt (1852-1934) were in charge of the construction, while the work was entrusted to master builder Johann (Giovanni) Bertolini from Trentino. Under Bertolini's leadership, the construction work was carried out in extremely challenging terrain - a technical masterpiece for the time.

The low number of accidents is remarkable: Of the approximately 200 workers, only one fatal accident was recorded. Among those involved was the well-known haulier Franz Josef Mathies, known as "Avalanche Franz-Josef". In his record book, he meticulously documented all the journeys he made for master builder Bertolini and thus played his part in the success of this ambitious project.

The Flexenstrasse is a symbol of technical innovation and human determination in a challenging mountain landscape.

The name Johann Ferdinand Bertolini (1859-1931), originally Giovanni Ferdinando, is closely associated with the construction of the Flexenstrasse. With this project, the master builder from Romallo in Val di Non (then Welschtirol, now Trentino) brought a painful chapter in Tannberg's transport history to an end.

At the age of 12, Bertolini was already working as a porter on the construction of the Pustertal Valley Railway and later learned the bricklaying trade in Switzerland. He put his skills to the test during the construction of the Arlberg Railway (1880-1884), where he was promoted to section foreman. He later settled in the Bregenzerwald, started a family and shaped the region's infrastructure as a building contractor. In addition to the Flexenstraße road, he played a key role in the expansion of transport routes in the Bregenzerwald and Tannberg and planned numerous public and private buildings.

His life and work were documented by his great-granddaughter Rita Bertolini (1966-2017) in the book "Stein auf Stein", which pays tribute to the extraordinary career of this pioneer. The memories of him and his legacy, such as the anecdote by his grandson Hans Bertolini, allow Johann Bertolini to be remembered as one of the region's most important master builders.

On October 11, 1897, Stuben am Arlberg experienced a special day of celebration: the opening of the first section of the Flexenstraße. The idyllic village was festively decorated, with salutes and the echo of the mountains announcing the extraordinary event. Already in the morning, numerous guests from all over Vorarlberg arrived in Stuben on foot or by car. At half past ten, the governor of Tyrol and Vorarlberg, Count Merveldt, was ceremoniously welcomed.

After just two years of construction, the new road connected the Klostertal and the Arlberg with the Tannberg and made traffic much easier. A triumphal arch at the height of the Flexen Pass symbolized the celebratory mood of the day.

Contemporary press reports at the time already emphasized the touristic importance of the Flexenstraße. The impressive views along the route were compared to the famous Via Mala in Graubünden and raised high expectations for future travelers.

The opening of the Flexenstrasse marked a milestone in the region's transport and tourism history.

"Welcome to Tannberg's heights" - this inscription was emblazoned on a festive arch on the Flexenhöhe in 1909, where the grand opening of the Flexen-Lechtaler road took place. The new connection, which was a lifeline for the mountain villages in the region, linked Stuben am Arlberg with Warth and the Lechtal valley and was finally inaugurated after several delays.

The Governor of Vorarlberg, Adolf Rhomberg, caused a stir at the celebration by arriving in an automobile - a sensation at this altitude. With increasing motorization in the interwar period, it became clear that the road, which was originally only three metres wide, no longer met the requirements. In 1935, the state government decided to widen the road, which began in 1936. During the war, construction was continued using prisoners of war, before further measures such as galleries were added in the 1950s.

About 20 years ago, there were plans for an Erzberg tunnel to replace the Flexenstrasse, but these plans were scrapped due to geological uncertainties. Instead, a new access road was built in the direction of Flexenstraße, which leads through several hairpin bends and safely connects Stuben am Arlberg with the road.

The Flexen-Lechtaler road remains an important symbol of the technical and economic development of the region to this day.

Breaking snow was an everyday challenge on the Arlberg and Flexenstrasse until the 1920s. A man used a pole or shovel to find the way, followed by a horse that often sank up to its chest in snow. After him, farmers with sledges and other horses worked to create a firm, even track by throwing snow into the path and smoothing the track with a sledge. This created a winter connection ready for sledging.

During the winter months, the road was closed to car traffic and transportation took place on winter paths with horse-drawn vehicles. Snow tunnels had to be dug in particularly snowy places, such as the Große Dohle on the Flexenstraße.

The development of tourism in the interwar period increased the need for better accessibility to Lech and Zürs. From the winter of 1934/35, Kegresse snowmobiles from the post office were used on the Flexenstrasse, made possible by snow presses. These tracked vehicles were in operation until after the Second World War.

With technological advances in snow clearing, the Flexenstraße became much easier to drive on from 1950. On average, there were only 11 closed days per winter, which improved the accessibility of the region in the long term.

The geological features of the region around the Flexenstrasse, in particular the Partnach and Arlberg strata, are impressive. In 1913, alpine geologist Otto Ampferer described the Hölltobel, a striking erosion of the Partnach strata, as a classic example of the wild erosive power in this area.

Crossing the Hölltobel was one of the biggest challenges during the construction of the Flexenstraße. The ravine, whose name reflects the dramatic terrain, required an innovative solution. As early as 1897, the road was routed over the ravine via an arched bridge. This bridge is not only a technical masterpiece, but also a popular photo motif. The view of the structure is particularly spectacular from the old Flexenweg opposite.

The Flexenstraße impressively demonstrates how technical engineering and the geology of the region have been harmoniously combined.

Until the years after the Second World War, the mountain pastures around Stuben were a central part of agriculture. Even steep areas, such as in the "Gafri" area above the Flexengalerie, were used to provide sufficient hay for the cattle. The name "Gafri" is derived from the Romanic capra (goat) and is a reminder of the long tradition of livestock farming in the region.

About 80 years ago, there were around 70 head of cattle in Stuben. As the hay yield around the houses was not sufficient, areas up to over 2000 meters above sea level were cultivated. The single-mow mountain pastures were cultivated after the first cut in the valley (fat hay) in late summer. Many workers were needed to cut the hay and store it in barns (hay barns) in the lower part of the mowing fields. Around 30 of these barns can be seen on old maps, but most of them are now derelict.

In winter, the hay barns were transported to the farms on dangerous paths. On the "Gafri" in particular, hay was hauled collectively with around 20 hay barns, which were brought to Klösterle or Wald by horses or cattle.

This impressive cultural landscape tells of hard work and the close connection between people and nature - a story that is still alive today in the mountain meadows around Flexenstrasse.

The view of Stuben, which lies deep below you, and the easy ascent to the top of the pass make the ride to Zürs an impressive experience. As early as 1912/13, Carl Josef Luther described the route from Stuben to Zürs as comfortable and charming - a journey that took around 2 to 3 hours at the time.

In the 1890s, articles from the German and Austrian Alpine Association pointed out that the peaks around Lech were hardly known to tourists. This changed with the improved accessibility of the Flexenstraße from 1897, which made it possible to increase tourist development of the villages on the Tannberg. Zürs in particular became an insider tip for skiers even before the First World War.

The progressive improvement of winter traffic via the Flexenstraße in the interwar period played a decisive role in the development of today's Arlberg tourism region. Visionary tourism pioneers in Lech and Zürs recognized the potential of the "Arlberg" brand early on. This term increasingly replaced the historical name "Tannberg" and established the region's international reputation as a winter sports paradise.

The Flexenstrasse was not only a technical masterpiece, but also a driving force for tourism on the Arlberg, which still benefits from its importance today.

Shortly after its opening in 1897, the Flexenstrasse became a popular postcard motif. The galleries, tunnels and Hölltobel viaduct in particular were impressively depicted, as was the view of the old route opposite. At the turn of the century, these postcards were sold in large numbers and made the Flexenstrasse famous throughout the region.

Over the decades, many Alpine photographers also discovered the Flexenstraße as an attractive motif. It was photographed from a wide variety of perspectives and photographed countless times. Since the 1920s, the road has also been used as a film set, captivating audiences with its impressive mountain landscape.

Today, the Flexenstraße is particularly popular with freeriders as a sporting challenge. Spectacular jumps over the galleries or serpentines are regularly captured on film and underline the iconic significance of this historic road.

The postcard, a classic means of providing brief public information, experienced its major breakthrough around 1896 - at the same time as the opening of the Flexenstrasse. Illustrated postcards became one of the first advertising media and made a significant contribution to promoting the emerging tourism industry.

With impressive motifs of the Flexenstrasse, such as galleries, viaducts and impressive mountain landscapes, these postcards helped to promote the region and attract travelers from near and far. To this day, they are regarded as pioneers for the rapid development of tourism on the Arlberg.